![]() Put the screen back in the sink and rinse out the D-Haze. You may have to let it soak in for awhile and then scrub some more, depending on how stubborn the stains are. Using the RED SPONGE, ON THE TABLE, scrub the D-Haze into both sides of the screen until the ink stains seem Ghost-imaged area(s) (DON'T USE A LOT! it's very strong and can harm the frame!) Place the screen on the metal cleaning table and spray a little D-Haze onto the stained and/or If the screen is already dry because you did Step 1 the day before,Īll the better!! (D-Haze works best on a dry screen) (These next two steps of reclaiming can be done the following day if necessary)ĭamp-dry the screen with a little paper towel. STEP TWO: REMOVE INK HAZING, INK STAINING, AND GHOST IMAGES Lastly, squeeze the trigger to release excess water from the (old) hose so it doesn't leak onto the floor Then pulling the level back up to the vertical position, to turn off the WATER Immediately after you've finished spraying, turn the high-pressure sprayer off by Turn the screen around and spray from the squeegee-side to remove them If there are stubborn spots that don't seem to come off like the rest, they are likely pin-hole fixes Move the spray back and forth across the screen to remove all of the emulsion Of nozzle from the water, so you can clear the screen more quickly Holding the nozzle a distance away from the screen will give you a wider swath (because the emulsion is coated on the squeegee-side) Squeezing the trigger with full force, spray the dissolving emulsion from the PRINT side Then turn on the POWER, by gently pressing the (now-broken) switch To turn on the sprayer: turn on the water FIRST, by pushing the blue lever down so it's horizontal/aligned with the hose SHUT THE DOOR- the machine is loud (use earplugs if it bothers you!!) ![]() Turn on the high-pressure sprayer (found under the little sink). Set the screen on either side/counter of the large sink- print-side up, and flat-Īnd allow the ER to soak in for a minimum of 4 minutesĪfter at least 4 minutes, when you are ready to spray out the emulsion, put your screen back in the sink and WITH THE SCREEN STILL IN THE SINK (nowhere else!!) spray a good coating of ER (emulsion remover) on both sides you are FINISHED PRINTING with the stencils on it! *First and foremost- you don't reclaim until the screen is CLEAN (you've cleaned the ink off of it, with water if it's water-based ink, and Bean-E-Doo if it's oil-based), and . Here is an abbreviated version of the demo/the instructions. So, how 'bout you review what you're supposed to do, by reading this blogpost! It'll help. ![]() Serious hazards to your health and safety are described in the literature.We will spend two class periods learning how to reclaim, because of 1) attention spans 2) so as not to take up your whole period with a demonstration and 3) I like to talk :) and explain things fully.īUT- when you reclaim YOUR screen, the whole process will probably take you about ten minutes, once you get it down! :) (as long as you don't have to wait in line for the sinks or table or sprayer etc.) You must have a safe way to dispose of hazardous residues. The materials may not be disposed of down sink drains. If you work with potassium dichromate, be sure to study the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) regulations. A small amount of hazardous potassium dichromate was one of several ingredients. We continue to become aware of personal and downstream environmental hazards of the materials and chemicals used as art materials.īecause of downstream environmental hazards of potassium dichromate and because of the potential hazards of working with potassium dichromate, I am no longer sharing the recipe for making your own photo emulsion. If you plan to work with photo emulsion, I recommend that you purchase prepared photo emulsion from a school art supply or other commercial supplier. Follow all instructions for your personal and environmental safety when working with all art materials. Making your own Photo Emulsion Sorry, the photo emulsion recipe for ![]()
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